Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

With five cats ruling my house, I have very little doubt about my role. Timely provision of food, water, and entertainment is expected, but there are times that I feel a little bit like their dealer, with catnip being their drug of choice.

Statistically, only around 60% of cats respond to the intoxicating effects of catnip, and that figure is reflected in my household, with Alex, Cyril, and Zelda being both attracted to and affected by catnip; Clutch and Zazzles have no interest in the stuff. Zelda, in particular, will start meowing aggressively if it’s been several days since her last ‘fix’, and the sound of opening the catnip tub is met with equal, if not greater, enthusiasm than the sound of the food container.

Recently, I was tasked with making some homemade cat toys, and the catnip crew were only too happy to help test them out.

But as I watch the wide-eyed antics of my intoxicated felines, I can’t help wondering – am I enabling an addiction?

The Ins and Outs of Catnip

Catnip, also known by its scientific name, Nepeta cataria, is a member of the mint family. These plants produce the chemical nepetalactone which repels insects, but appeals to many of the feline persuasion. This chemical works its way into your cat’s pleasure center by way of a particularly sensitive olfactory organ located in the roof of their mouth, called the vomeronasal organ (VMO for short). If you’ve ever noticed your cat pulling a comical grimace when they are sniffing something, this is called the Flehmen response – or as we used to call it in my house, “stinky face” – whereby they draw scents and pheromones into the VMO. From here, your cat can glean an absolute mass of information about the world around them.

One of the more important pieces of information processed by the VMO is to do with sex, like the presence of competition or the receptiveness of females. So the messages reaching your cat’s brain appear to be similar to arousal, which certainly explains the blissful response! It’s just a shame that only 60% of the cat population gets to enjoy it.

Can Cats OD on Catnip?

The catnip plant is not toxic to cats, but if they ingest a huge amount they may develop some unpleasant gastrointestinal side effects. I’ve never seen this in my cats.

I usually bulk buy my catnip in a 1-ounce tub, which might not sound like much, but is the equivalent of 3-4 herb jars, and it usually lasts for several months…unless the cats manage to break into the container.

Thus far, the only downside my cats have experienced to this treat is some occasional eye irritation, a consequence of rubbing their face too aggressively against the carpet!

Am I Enabling Addicts?

I don’t think so. Although their ears prick up when I open the drawer containing this intoxicating treat, and the opening of the tub brings 60% of my cats to swarm excitedly around my feet, they do not spend the rest of their time looking for more, in a desperate search for their next ‘fix’. Although Zelda does get a tad demanding if she feels it’s been too long since her last dose, she is not completely consumed by her need for the ‘nip.

And if I can provide some extra amusement and enrichment in their lives, I’m absolutely going to do it. I just wish there was a way for Clutch and Zazzles to experience the same bliss I see in Zelda, Alex, and Cyril’s glassy, dilated pupils!

The post My Cats Are Addicts…And I Am Their Dealer by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

Whether it’s a worming tablet, flea treatment, or a course of antibiotics, trying to medicate your cat is not always easy, and when I set out to create this guide, I thought I’d have the ideal model in my easygoing feline, Clutch. Boy, was I wrong! On the plus side, however, he did provide us with some great examples of how to cope with an uncooperative patient!

Some things I have learned about medicating cats, both my own, and my patients:

• Trim claws first – at least if they do object, they’re doing it with short talons!
• Make them feel comfortable and secure – choose a location they feel happy in and place a towel or non-slip mat underneath them.
• Cats aren’t stupid – if the medication tastes awful, they won’t eat it in their food.
• 4 hands are better than 2 – if possible, get someone to help you.
• Confident handling is essential – check out my previous post on How To Safely Restrain Your Cat for more tips and tricks.

Eye Drops

The trick with giving eye drops is to come from behind the head rather than front on – this is much less confrontational for your cat. Use the heel of the hand holding the drops to pull the lower eyelid down whilst using the other hand to steady the back of the head.

Clutch really let the team down on this one! He, like many cats, was not tolerant of eye drops at all. But, it gave me the chance to use the technique I developed for my Chihuahua, Ned. I use a tiny bit of cotton wool and wet it with the eye drops, enough to ensure that the drops will drip into the eye as I wipe the cotton wool over the eyelids. Clutch may not have loved this either, but it allows you to get the drops right into the eye rather than trying to ‘point and shoot’. Just be aware that you will go through your eye drops more quickly with this technique.

Spot-ons

A lot of people get preoccupied with parting the fur and making sure they can see the skin before applying flea products. Yes, it is important that the product be applied to the skin, but as long as you get the nozzle through the fur to the skin, you can be quite sure it’s reaching the right place. You will always get some of the liquid on the fur, so be aware that this stuff can leave permanent oily marks on clothes, walls, and furniture!

Liquids and Pastes

Though I am loath to use towel wrapping on cats, Clutch once again proved to be the most difficult patient! Although he keeps his claws sheathed, he is very good at pushing me away and wriggling free, so he became our towel-demo boy.

When giving liquids and pastes to your cat, you need to tip the head back as far as you can, as this takes a lot of the strength away from the lower jaw. You need to direct the syringe towards the back of the tongue, but don’t shoot the liquid out too quickly.

Tablets

*Groan*

We all hate giving our cats tablets. Even the ones that claim to be palatable, rarely are. Here are my hot tips for giving tablets:

• If they taste awful, food is probably not going to hide them, and crushing them into food will only make them reject a larger amount of food.
• Hiding medication in food only works if the tablets are flavorless or not bitter.
• Gelatine capsules (vegan alternatives are available) are a great way to turn multiple tablets into a single medication, and come in a range of different sizes.
• Pill givers and pill putty are lifesavers!

If you need to get a tablet down your cat’s throat, you need to get it over the back of the tongue. I can guarantee that anything short of that will result in a failure, even if you don’t realize it at the time. Holding their mouth closed or rubbing their throat will just mean that the tablet that gets spat out later is more sticky.

Here’s The Real Tip

If you really struggle with medicating your cat, speak to your veterinary practice. You’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be, from showing you different ways to get those medications in, looking for alternative formulations, or even giving your cat the medication for you.

Don’t be shy – we’re here to help!

To see these tips in action – along with Clutch making me look foolish – check out the video.

The post How to Give Your Cat Medication: Dr. Karyn’s Tips (with Video) by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Cats are rather infamous for being “vomity” creatures, with hairballs being the cause of most feline gastrointestinal evacuations. Because of this, a certain amount of vomiting is considered normal for cats, sometimes making it more difficult to recognize when there is a problem.

There are a few key points to consider when assessing your cat’s upchuck habits, including whether we are dealing with vomiting or regurgitation, how often they are doing it, and the amount, consistency, and color of what they are bringing up.

Although cats will experience the odd vomit from time to time, any cat that is vomiting frequently or violently, is losing weight, or is showing any other signs of illness should be assessed by your veterinarian without further delay. If your cat is throwing up brown liquid, you are going to want to know why. Fortunately, you have found yourself in the right place.

Let’s take a look at how the color of your cat’s vomit can be a useful diagnostic tool, as well as what else you need to know.

The 3 Reasons Your Cat Is Throwing Up Brown Liquid

The color of your cat’s vomit can give us a surprising amount of information about what’s driving the problem. For example, yellow vomit (bile) often indicates an empty stomach, clear vomit suggests they’ve been drinking a lot of water, and pink vomit can be a sign of mild bleeding in the stomach or esophagus.

Your cat could be throwing up liquid for many different reasons, including renal failure, overactive thyroid, or digestive issues. The reasons this fluid might be brown include:

1. Diet

Most cat foods are varying shades of brown, so brown-hued vomit is not a huge surprise. However, if your cat’s food tends to be a paler beige or yellow, we need to consider other causes.

2. Bleeding in the Gastrointestinal Tract

Fresh blood from the esophagus or stomach will show up as red or pink in the vomit, but if there is a slow bleed (e.g., from a gastric ulcer) or if there is bleeding further along in the intestines, this can appear brown or even black when thrown up. If you suspect your cat’s vomit may contain blood, you should contact your vet immediately.

3. Fecal Matter

If your cat has an obstruction further down the intestines or large bowel, this can cause fecal matter to back up in the digestive tract and appear as vomit. The smell of the liquid will be the most obvious indication that this is the problem, and it is a sign that your cat needs urgent veterinary care.

Vomiting vs. Regurgitation

Apart from the color of what your cat is throwing up, we need to know whether we are dealing with vomiting or regurgitation.

What’s the Difference?

Vomiting, or throwing up, is an active process whereby the contents of the stomach or small intestines are forced upward into the esophagus and out of the mouth. It is usually accompanied by signs of nausea (drooling, lip smacking, appearing unwell) and involves abdominal effort. The material produced when vomiting typically includes fluid, partially digested food, or hairballs.

Regurgitation is a more passive reflex, whereby food is ejected from the esophagus before or as it reaches the entry to the stomach. There are usually little or no signs of nausea, and the material brought up closely resembles what went in.

If your cat is throwing up brown liquid, we are mostly likely dealing with vomiting, unless they are regurgitating undigested gravy. If in doubt, take a photo of the liquid to show your vet.

Conclusion

There are many reasons why our cats might throw up, and the more information we can give our vets, the more quickly we can reach a diagnosis. Being able to describe whether your cat is vomiting or regurgitating, how much, how frequently, and the consistency and color of the material are all important factors to be aware of, and photographs can also be very helpful.

If your cat is throwing up brown liquid, it may simply be due to the type of food they are eating, how fast they are eating or it could be a sign of bleeding in the digestive tract or even a severe obstruction. In any case, a cat that is throwing up brown liquid should be seen by a vet.

Although it’s true that most cats will vomit from time to time, brown liquid could be a sign of a more serious problem, so it is better to have them examined sooner rather than later.

Featured Image Credit: Nils Jacobi, Shutterstock

The post Why Is My Cat Throwing Up Brown Liquid? 3 Vet Explained Reasons by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

Fortunately for us, cats are pretty good at keeping themselves clean, rarely needing any major intervention from their humans, apart from some brushing and the occasional nail clip. However, some cats do suffer with waxy ears, or they may need to have their ears cleaned as part of treating an infection.

I’m lucky that only one of my cats, Clutch, needs regular aural attention. He has a couple of small polyps on the area outside his ear canals that make him a bit more prone to getting dirty ears, but fortunately don’t cause any other issues for him. He’s also a bit unusual for a cat in that he’s not quite as fastidious about his self-grooming as most other cats! Luckily, he’s quite cooperative with my efforts to keep him clean and tidy, including having his ears cleaned, and even having a bath!

So with his help, I’m going to talk you through cleaning cats’ ears, starting with why it might need to be done, and how to do it safely.

Do They Need To Be Cleaned?

For the most part, you won’t have to worry about cleaning your cat’s ears, but if you’ve noticed them looking dirty, crusty, smelly, or anything else unusual, the first thing you need to do is make an appointment with your vet.

Although, like with Clutch, some cats are just prone to waxy or dirty ears, in the majority of cases, if a cat’s ears need to be cleaned, there’s a medical reason. Ear mites, ear infections, polyps, and even certain types of cancer can result in discharge from the ears that might be creamy, crumbly, black, brown, or smelly, and different problems need different treatments. Part of that treatment may involve cleaning the ears or applying ear drops, or your cat may just need a regular cleaning regime.

The important point is that you should always seek veterinary advice before putting ANYTHING into your cat’s ears – the last thing you want to do is make anything worse.

How to Clean Your Cat’s Ears

This is something that will require at least some level of restraint, so I recommend checking out my article and video about how to safely restrain your cat. I am really lucky in that Clutch allows me to do most things to him with minimal fuss, but not all cats will be quite so compliant. It’s important to be able to see what you’re doing, so you want to make sure you’re in a place and a position that allows you to examine the ears, and if possible, have a second set of hands to help you.

Always make sure you have everything you will or might need before you get started, because even the most tolerant cat will lose patience very quickly if you have to keep stopping and starting. Your equipment list should include:

→ make sure you are using ear cleaner and ear drops that your vet has prescribed or recommended

→ if you have been advised to clean the ears before applying ear drops, it’s a good idea to wait 10-15 minutes after cleaning before applying any medicated drops.

Step 1: Set a Calm Scene

Place a towel on the table or bench you’ll be working on, or on the floor if you prefer. This provides a nice non-slip surface and can be used to wrap your cat if it becomes necessary. Bring your cat to your chosen spot and give them a treat and a fuss. Provided their ears aren’t painful, give them a bit of a rub and a scratch as a way of easing into the ear clean.

Step 2: Identify the Anatomy

Before you start poking, prodding, or cleaning, take a good look at the ear and make sure you can identify the ear canal. Your vet can help you with this, and the photo below of Cyril’s ear shows the canal very clearly.

Step 3: Clean Outside the Ear Canal

This is what the cotton buds are for. Although you should NEVER put cotton buds into the ear canal, they are perfect for getting wax from out of the nooks and crannies formed by the cartilage surrounding the ear canal.

Step 4: Clean Inside the Ear Canal

If your cat is particularly sensitive or painful, or if your vet has advised you not to put any cleaning solution into the ear canal, a good option is to pour a generous amount of ear cleaner onto your cotton pad/ball, and place this over your finger to clean as much of the ear canal as you can reach.

Because of the angle of the canal, you will not be able to hit the eardrum unless you start angling cotton buds into the ear.

Step 5: Apply Drops or Cleaning Solution Directly Into the Ear Canal

Don’t put any solution into the ear canal unless your cat has been examined by a vet.

Hold the pinna (ear flap) against the top of the head so you can see the ear canal. Insert the nozzle into the canal to apply the solution or drops as your vet has prescribed. Keep a firm hold of your cat’s head and ear to prevent them from shaking their head, causing the drops to fly out of the ear.

Firmly massage the cartilaginous base of the ear – most cats will enjoy this step, and it helps the medication or cleaning solution reach the deep part of the ear canal. If you are using an ear cleaner, use the cotton pad/ball to wipe any discharge and solution from around the ear canal. Repeat until you are not getting any more discharge out.

Step 6: Part as Friends

Be sure to give your cat a fuss, a treat, and an extra ear rub to make sure you end on a positive note.

Your cat will likely flap their ears and shake their head for some time after their ear clean, but if this persists more than 4-6 hours, a vet check is advisable. If your cat develops a head tilt that lasts more than 4-6 hours after a clean/treatment, phone your vet.

Minimize Restraint = Minimize Stress

I find that cats are much more likely to stress and fight back when we wrap them tightly or use excessive force to hold them still. If you can make ear cleaning a positive experience, there’s a good chance that you’ll be able to clean your cat’s ears on your own, using just some firm but well-placed hands, keeping their stress levels low. However, if your cat is really not tolerating their ear hygiene, you may find that a towel wrap may be the safest way for you to proceed.

Though not all cats are as insanely relaxed as Clutch is, in many cases ear cleaning can be quite a therapeutic, beneficial, and enjoyable procedure that your cat may come to not just tolerate, but enjoy.

Join us next week when my cats and I take on medication!

The post How to Clean Your Cat’s Ears: Dr. Karyn’s Tips (with Video) by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

Cats are known to be fastidious creatures, often devoting hours of their day to grooming, so it’s not often that we have to give them a bath. However, sometimes this unfortunate task cannot be avoided, and while there are some cats who actually enjoy getting wet, the majority would prefer to stay well clear of the bathtub or shower. Grime or grease show up more easily on Clutch’s snow-white fur, so he does receive the occasional bath, which, like most things, he takes in his stride with very little protest, making him an ideal model for a demonstration. Zelda, on the other hand, is a lot more flighty and doesn’t even like being brushed, so I was less enthusiastic about taking her for a dip, but the cat litter stuck to her long furry trousers has put her in the line of bathtime fire.

This does mean that I can show you how to bathe a cat, plus how to bathe a cat that is likely to put up a lot of resistance.

Preparation Is Key

Assume that your bathing session is going to be a disaster – by expecting the worst, you will hopefully be prepared for all eventualities. I have found that cats settle more quickly if you place them into a tub of water and get as much of them wet as possible – if they think they can escape without getting soaked, they will fight much harder to get away, so choose a deep sink or bathtub for your scene.

You should choose a small, enclosed room, with minimal jumping or hiding spots, so the bathroom tends to be the obvious choice. Move any bottles, jars, or other objects from shelves and surfaces where they could be knocked over in the event of a mad scramble, and make sure the window is secure.

I recommend trimming your cat’s claws before their bath to help minimize the damage they may inflict if the situation turns ugly. Make sure you have everything you’ll need within reach of the basin/tub, but you shouldn’t need much in the way of supplies.

• a non-slip mat, towel, or bath mat to place in the bottom of the tub – the slippery surface can be almost as distressing as the water to your cat.
• cat-friendly shampoo – eg. Hepper Oatmeal Shampoo
• 2-3 large bath towels

Place one towel on the floor to soak up the water that will spill.

Have a ‘drying room’ ready for your cat to chill out in at the end – make sure it’s warm and free of draughts.

Get the Water Temperature Right

Whether you’re using a hose attachment, faucet, or jug, it is vital to get the water temperature right. Remember that a cat’s body temperature is slightly higher than ours, so the water should feel warm, but not hot. Make sure you run the water long enough to know it won’t get hotter during the bath.

If you’re using a hose-type attachment, be careful. While Clutch had no problem with the hose, Zelda’s initial struggles caused a fumble that resulted in me squirting her with the shower hose. This did not enhance her experience!

Fill the tub so that it is deep enough to reach halfway up your cat’s body. This will allow you to immerse most of them in the water right away.

Prepare to Get Wet

Once you have checked you have everything you need, it’s go time.

Pick up your cat with confident hands, but do not cuddle them tightly against you. When they spot the water, they are likely to try to escape, usually by clambering up and over you. Use the secure hold I showed you in the How To Safely Restrain A Cat video; this will allow you to more easily maneuver them into the water without having to detach their claws from your clothes or skin!

Place them swiftly, but gently, into the water, being careful to keep their head and ears dry. This is when the worst of the struggling will occur, so be wary of teeth and claws, but try to maintain a confident, firm hold. Immobilizing the shoulders and guiding the hind legs to the towel or mat in the tub should enable you to keep them in the water.

Keep Everyone Safe

The aim here is to show your cat that you ‘mean business’ by being confident, without using excessive force – friendly but firm. If they think they can escape, they will, but if they believe you are in control, they are less likely to fight.

Although I try not to let my cats scramble free, if they become extremely stressed, panicked, or aggressive, do not persevere. No bath is worth emotional or physical trauma for either of you.

The Easy Part

Once your cat has (hopefully) calmed down a bit and accepted that this bath is going to happen, use a jug or shower hose to wet them from the neck down, and lather up some shampoo. You can use your hand or a cloth to wipe over their face, but make sure no shampoo gets in their eyes, and no water goes into the ears.

Make sure you rinse them thoroughly and start to drain the water from the tub. Try to squeeze excess water from their fur, and either lift them onto the waiting towel, or bring the towel to them. Give them a vigorous drying off, a huge amount of praise, and take them to a warm room to recover.

They Will Forgive You

Every now and then, we all have to do things that our cats aren’t going to like, but if you’re patient, firm, and friendly, they will get over the trauma of getting wet. What causes more upset to our cats is when we shout, panic, get angry, or upset – this is what they will remember, so this is what you must avoid.

You will see in my video that Zelda did not have a great time, but in the end, she calmed down a lot, and I can’t tell you with complete honesty that she was on my lap later that night.

So be confident, be safe, and be prepared to get wet!

The post How to Give Your Cat a Bath: Dr. Karyn’s Tips (With Video) by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

There’s a good chance that your cat is going to need their claws cut at some point, if not on a regular basis. If they spend a lot of time outdoors, it’s not wise to trim them too short too often, as they are an important tool for hunting, climbing, and defense. If you have an indoor kitty, keeping their claws shorter can prevent them from getting stuck in carpets and clothing, and give your furniture a fighting chance. Another reason a nail clip can be highly beneficial is if you need to do anything else that your cat is not going to enjoy, like cleaning their ears, administering medication, or giving them a bath. It might not stop them from lashing out, but it can mean the difference between a nasty slice and a superficial graze.

Some cats are really tolerant of the occasional mani/pedi, others need a bit more convincing, and there are some that are best left to the professionals. With five indoor cats, nail trims are a pretty regular occurrence at my house, so I thought I’d take the opportunity to share some pointers on how to get it right.

Set Yourself Up to Win

Preparation is the key to success, and before you grab the nail clippers, check out my article and video about how to safely restrain your cat.

Most of the time, clipping claws is a two-person job, but with a relaxed cat and the right technique, you may be able to master this chore single-handedly. Choose a quiet spot where you can safely restrain your cat on a table or on your lap, depending on how agreeable they are, and make sure you have everything you might need before you begin:

• a towel
• good quality nail clippers
• styptic powder in case of accidents
• treats for during and after the nail clip

Place a towel down on any tables so they aren’t slippery, as this will make your cat feel much more secure.

If you’re not sure if your clippers are sharp enough, trim the end of a piece of uncooked spaghetti – if it cuts smoothly and easily, you’re good to go!

Less Is More

This goes for your method of restraint, and how much to trim.

If you’ve seen my tips on restraining cats, you’ll know that I’m not the biggest fan of towel-wrapping cats, but for some, it is the only safe option. Instead, I find that using firm, confident hands placed strategically, is more likely to get you the results you want.

When it comes to trimming claws, the biggest mistake people make is to try to hold or control the limb at the paw end. The best way to immobilize the paw is by holding the elbow or ankle (tarsal joint) to stop your cat from pulling the paw away. This is much more comfortable for them and more effective for you.

The biggest worry and risk with any nail trim is cutting the claw too short. If you’re new to this, it’s much better to play it safe and just take a couple of millimeters at a time until you get more confident. Become familiar with the anatomy of the paw and claw, and take some time to examine your cat’s feet at a time when you’re not coming at them with a pair of nail clippers!

The quick in a cat’s claw usually extends around 3-4 mm from the nail bed, but if you can’t visualize it, the safest method is to only trim the part of the claw that is very narrow and curved.

Confidence is Everything

Cats know if we’re nervous or lacking in confidence, so have faith in your abilities, or fake it until you make it! Trembling hands and hesitant movements are going to result in one anxious kitty, so prepare for the worst but plan to succeed!

Know When You’re Beaten

Even with my experience as a vet, and having many cats over the years, there are times when one of my cats, usually Zelda or Alex, will kick up such a fuss that it simply isn’t worth the anguish. It’s better to walk away as friends and try another day, than to end up scratched and distressed, with a cat that wants nothing to do with you. Some cats have a limit, and you might only manage to do one paw before they call ‘game over’. I would always prefer to do mini-claw clips more frequently than to risk traumatizing or injuring your cat or yourself.

No claw clip is worth injuring you or your cat, or damaging your relationship with them, so if a home manicure just isn’t working out, don’t sweat it! Your vet or professional groomer will be able to help.

Join us next week when we tackle ear cleaning!

The post How to Cut Your Cat’s Claws: Dr. Karyn’s Tips (with Video) by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

Over the next few weeks, with the reluctant help from my clan of cats, I will be bringing you a series of “How To” articles. Trimming claws, cleaning ears, medicating, and bathing your cat are all things you may need to do at various times, and some cats seem to make it more challenging than others. Although there are cats who will never be cooperative with these sorts of activities, many, and I would even say most, will respond well to confident handling.

Working as a vet, I know that I’m guilty of sending a patient home with a list of instructions for their overwhelmed owner, not realizing that not everyone is confident with all aspects of feline handling and husbandry. And many people are too embarrassed to ask for a demonstration (but you shouldn’t be!).

Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zazzles, and Zelda are going to assist me in demonstrating some techniques for some common cat maintenance activities, starting with how to correctly and safely restrain your cat. These instructions are intended only to be used on your own cat, and only if it is necessary and safe to do so.

You can follow along with the action on our YouTube channel here.

Friendly and Firm

Cats know when we’re nervous. They can pick up on anxiety and spot your lack of confidence from a mile off. Something I always tell people is don’t ‘try’ to do something with your pet; Do It! I’m sure Master Yoda once said something very similar.

There are two concepts I want everyone looking to safely restrain their cat to remember:

Be Friendly and Firm. Never use Force or Fear.

From just picking them up, to holding them for a treatment or procedure, if you aren’t confident in your movements, your cat will not trust you to handle them. To understand the basics of this, let’s start with picking up your cat.

Although I don’t encourage you to force your cat to have cuddles or be carried around if that’s not their style, you should be able to lift and hold your cat without either of you becoming injured or distressed. We should always respect the comfort and safety of our pets, but if you need to do something for their health and wellbeing, you may find yourself fighting against an unwilling participant, and the only way to win that battle is by being firm and friendly. Keep calm, be confident about what you are about to do, but be prepared in case it all goes pear-shaped.

Picking Up A Cat

This is definitely getting back to basics, but if you need to pick up and restrain your cat for something other than a cuddle, it’s worth knowing the quickest way to gather them into a secure hold.

Step 1: Approach and Assess

Decide if you’re dealing with a cooperative cat or cranky kitty, and approach them accordingly, ideally giving them a pat or scritch to break the ice. The more relaxed your cat is, the more relaxed and friendly your technique can be. If they are stressed and likely to flee, you’ll need to act more quickly. The aim is to gather them into your arms, pull them close into your body, and stand up in one movement, so get yourself into a position to do this.

Step 2: The Reach Around

If you’re right-handed like me, approach your cat side-on, with their head facing towards the left. Reach your right hand over their body in a diagonal, coming over the haunches, then around and under the chest, spreading your hand so you can place your thumb on the outside of the chest, and grip their left elbow (the one closest to your body) in your other fingers. Use your left hand to control or stroke their head and pull their body firmly against yours as you stand up.

Obviously, if you’re left-handed, your approach is the opposite.

Step 3: Be Friendly and Firm

It is important to keep firm pressure on your cat’s body once you have them in this hold so that they feel secure, and not worried that they’ll be dropped. If they struggle at this point, keep calm and ride it out. If you don’t release the pressure, in most cases, your cat will settle down quickly. From here, you can place them on a table, into a carrier; wherever they need to be next.

Know When To Stop

If your cat is getting really stressed, panicking, or trying to bite and scratch, you may need to stop. Although most cats will submit once they realize that you’re holding them firmly, some just will not tolerate restraint, and you may need to talk to your vet about an alternative plan.

The Question of Scruffing

I will be honest and tell you that, on occasion, I will use a scruff hold to restrain a cat. I do this when it is necessary to ensure the safety of the cat and my team members. I never use it to pick up a cat, but there are times when it is the only safe way to hold a cat to give an injection, inspect a painful wound, or prevent them from injuring themselves or others. It should never be used for punishment or convenience, and if a cat needs to be restrained in this way for more than a minute to two, whatever procedure is being attempted should be abandoned in favor of sedation.

If your cat is fighting against restraint and you feel you need to let them go, you may find that the safest way to do so is to apply a scruff hold as you lower them, still supporting them with the other arm, and releasing them only once their feet are on the ground.

Safe Positioning

Once you have your cat on the table or countertop where you’ll be clipping claws, cleaning ears etc., you need to continue to keep them held firmly against your body, or firmly against the table surface. Do not force them against the table, but apply enough pressure for them to feel secure there. Depending on what you are doing, use your body and hands to immobilize your cat, and apply a firm hold to manipulate the area in question.

For example,

• if you are trimming claws, a secure hold of the elbow can stop them pulling their paw away.
• use your elbow to tuck their back end against your body, leaving your hands free.
• use firm, flat-handed pressure over the shoulders or over the neck to keep them from turning their head.

What About A Kitty Burrito?

Personally, I don’t use the towel wrap unless I really have to. I find that the more you try to wrap up a cat, the more they are likely to struggle and panic, which is why I prefer restraint methods that allow them to feel that they have some freedom of movement. However, if you need to restrain your cat with all four limbs safely ensconced within the confines of a towel, the key to making this work is to use a large enough towel that allows you to fold it up and over the front legs, then firmly gripping both sides behind the head. From here, you wrap each side of the body tightly, never releasing the grip at the back of the neck.

For a cat like Clutch or Cyril, who are ridiculously relaxed and amenable to most things, this method of restraint is really resented, and they really fight against it.

Set Yourself Up to Win

If you know you have to do something your cat isn’t going to like, make sure you are completely prepared before you get started.

• Choose a smaller room, and make sure doors and windows are closed.
• Have everything you’re going to need within your reach.
• Try to anticipate how your cat may react, and prepare for the worst.
• Don’t pick your cat up without knowing how and where you need to have them positioned.
• Be friendly and firm, do not use force or fear.

Check in with us each week to see Clutch, Zelda, Zazzles, Alex, and Cyril as they show you how confident handling can make even the most unpopular of tasks less stressful.

The post How to Safely Restrain a Cat: Dr. Karyn Shares Her Tips (with Video) by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

I don’t know about you, but some of my cats are magic.

It’s one thing for cats that go outside to seem to vanish off the face of the earth from time to time, only to appear again in time for dinner, but when your completely indoor feline pulls off a vanishing act on a regular basis, you can’t help but suspect there are mystical forces at work.

Not long ago, we had some friends come to stay with us, and they were all too aware of how strict we are about letting our cats outside. One afternoon, I came home from work and the pair of them were sitting in our lounge room looking incredibly sheepish.

“What’s wrong?” I asked, wondering who’d broken what.

“We can’t find Alex,” came the reply.

“Oh! Is that all? You had me worried for a minute. Don’t stress, this is just what Alex does. He vanishes.”

But they wouldn’t relax until I had proceeded to turn the house upside down in search of our ginger ninja. And just as I knew he would, Alex magically appeared in the middle of the kitchen floor at precisely the time we had finished searching every square inch of the house. There he sat, calmly licking his paws, pretending to be oblivious to the furniture that had been rearranged during our game of hide-and-seek.

“But where was he?” came the perplexed question.

“That” I said, “is for Alex to know, and us never to find out.”

Whilst Alex would give Mr Mistoffelees a run for his money, Zazzles has proven herself to be equally committed to hiding, but somewhat less skilled at vanishing completely. It has taken me several years, but I believe I have finally mapped out her favorite hiding spots, of which she has five, one of which we recently destroyed by swapping our ottoman bed for a regular slatted arrangement. Prior to this, Zazzles had a rather impressive technique of opening the drawers under the bed just enough to ooze inside, then somehow close it behind her. Or perhaps she had an accomplice; I never witnessed this for myself.

Sully, the cat who joined me in the UK, all the way from Australia, was also skilled in the art of invisibility. Like Alex, she would always finish her disappearing act with a sudden, stealthy reappearance in the center of a room, looking as though she had been sitting there all along. And this is where the magic comes in.

Our house is of a reasonable size, but it is not enormous. We have systematically checked every drawer, cupboard, nook, cranny, basket, and bread bin. We have searched under sofas and checked above the fridge, and never come up with the goods. Although I am not a superstitious person, nor one who believes in the supernatural, the only conclusion I can reach is that I have a magical disappearing cat. Or, more correctly, a magical reappearing cat!

Perhaps next time I’ll get one that can make my bills disappear.

The post Magical Disappearing Cats: Zazzles & Alex’s Vanishing Acts by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

It’s really scary when our pets become ill, particularly when they’re not acting like their normal selves. Often, one of the first signs that there’s something wrong with our cat is that they seem quiet, lethargic, or try to hide. These sorts of signs can occur with many different issues, from a fever to something more serious. But what if their personality changes, or they have difficulty walking, or even start having seizures? These can be signs of a neurological problem and need immediate veterinary attention.

There are several causes of neurological disease in cats: infection, trauma, congenital problems, and cancer, to name a few. Let’s take a closer look at the neurological disorders that affect cats to learn what signs to watch out for, and how these disorders can be treated.

Understanding Feline Neurological Disease

As we know, the nervous system is extremely complex and is responsible for controlling every other aspect of biological function, from basic reflexes, movement and coordination, hormones, digestion, breathing, thinking—everything! So, when something goes wrong with this system, the results can be catastrophic.

Because there are so many different ways that a neurological disorder can present, a thorough history is vital, including what sort of signs you have noticed, how long they’ve been going on, and any other changes that have been seen. The location, type, and duration of clinical signs can give us a huge amount of information.

What Are the Most Common Forms of Neurological Disorders in Cats?

Now that we have a better understanding of how to approach neurological disease, let’s take a look at some examples of disorders in cats.

1. Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)

You might be wondering how peritonitis fits into neurological disorders, and it is a misleading label. FIP is a viral infection caused by a strain of Feline Coronavirus, a family of viruses that cause a number of respiratory and gastrointestinal diseases in humans, including COVID-19, SARS, and MERS.

Feline coronavirus is relatively common amongst cats, particularly those living in high-density feline populations or multi-cat households. It is shed in the feces and easily picked up by other cats in a shared environment, and in the majority of cases, is asymptomatic. If a cat becomes unwell or immunocompromised, is infected by another virus (such as feline leukemia virus), or is generally in poor health and condition, the virus can mutate into an active form which, in almost all cases, is fatal.

The most common presentation of FIP in cats is one that produces fluid buildup in the body (effusion), particularly within the peritoneal cavity, or abdomen. This is also referred to as “wet” FIP, due to the effusions it causes. The second form creates little or no effusion, so is referred to as “dry” FIP, although both forms can occur simultaneously.

Dry FIP can affect numerous organ systems, most notably, the eyes and nervous system. The virus may cause painful inflammation, infection, and bleeding in the eyes. As it reaches the brain, this inflammation will cause depression, personality changes, seizures, ataxia (wobbly, unstable walking), coma, and death.

Most cases of active FIP are seen in cats under the age of 2 years old; however, the virus can remain dormant for years and be activated at any age. Clinical signs of the virus tend to progress rapidly, over the course of days/weeks.

2. Otitis

Ear infections can sometimes trigger reactions that look like neurological signs, but they can also cause true neurological disorders. If a cat has an infection to the outer part of the ear (otitis externa), they may tilt their head because of the pain and inflammation in the ear, but this is not a neurological head tilt.

If infection reaches the middle ear (otitis media) or inner ear (otitis interna), inflammation of the facial nerves, causes Horner’s Syndrome or disruption of the vestibular system. Signs of vestibular disease include ataxia, circling, head tilt, and a rapid flickering of the eyes, called nystagmus.

In severe cases, infection and inflammation can travel up the nerves toward the brain, which can cause more severe neurological signs like depression, behavioral changes, and seizures.

Neurological signs associated with otitis can appear over a matter of hours but will usually be preceded by signs of discomfort and irritation of the ear. Cats that have had repeated episodes of otitis externa are at a greater risk of developing otitis media or interna, as are cats that suffer from ear polyps.

3. Neoplasia (Cancer)

Brain and spinal cord tumors are, fortunately, not common in cats, and rarely seen in cats younger than 10 years old. The clinical signs produced by tumors affecting the brain and spinal cord will depend very much on where the tumor is located, the type of tumor, and how quickly it is growing.

Some tumors are benign, meaning that they may be growing for a long time (months to years) before any clinical signs are seen, whereas malignant tumors will invade other tissues. Malignant tumors in other parts of the body may also spread (metastasize) to the brain.

One of the most common clinical signs of brain tumors is seizures, with changes in personality, lethargy, depression, ataxia, head tilt, nystagmus, and inappetence also being common signs.

Tumors located in the spinal cord will most often result in weakness, tremors, or paralysis of limbs, and may also cause urinary or fecal incontinence.

4. Epilepsy/Seizures

Epilepsy first appears in cats younger than 7 years old, and the cat is completely normal in between seizures. It is quite common for cats with epilepsy to have periods of several months between seizures, but the frequency tends to increase over time. Compared with dogs, cats are more likely to suffer from partial (focal) seizures, where parts of the body may exhibit seizure activity, without a loss of consciousness.

Accurate diagnosis of epilepsy requires a range of diagnostic tests to rule out extracranial and intracranial causes of seizures, such as bloodwork, ultrasound, and CT scans. It is not uncommon for epilepsy to be excluded as a diagnosis if the seizures emerge after the age of 10–12 years old, or are accompanied by any other neurological signs.

5. Cerebellar Hypoplasia

Although there are a large number of congenital neurological disorders in cats, cerebellar hypoplasia is the most common one that may allow long-term survival. Sometimes referred to as “wobbly” or “clumsy,” kittens with cerebellar hypoplasia are affected from birth, with clinical signs becoming more noticeable as the kitten becomes more active.

If a female cat is infected with the Panleukopenia Virus (also known as feline distemper virus) during pregnancy, the virus can stunt the development of the cerebellum in the unborn kitten. The cerebellum is responsible for coordinating motor function with brain function, so cats with cerebellar hypoplasia will have varying levels of ataxia, incoordination, and balance problems, depending on the extent of the disorder.

6.  Trauma

Road traffic accidents are the most common cause of trauma-induced neurological dysfunction. The clinical signs seen will depend on the type, location, and severity of the injury sustained, and may be permanent or temporary.

7. Feline Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome (CDS)

Also known as feline senile dementia, CDS is relatively common in geriatric cats. It presents in many different ways, including minor personality changes, inappropriate toileting, new/changed habits, or “vacant” behavior.

As many of these signs can also be linked to common geriatric problems, such as renal disease, cystitis, hyperthyroidism, or arthritis, it is vital to bring your cat in for a health check before dismissing any of these changes as just “old age.”

Conclusion

As you can see, neurological disorders in cats are just about as numerous and complex as the nervous system itself. Being an integral part of all bodily functions, any damage, disease, or dysfunction of the neurological system can have effects anywhere in the body.

Cats are incredibly resilient creatures, which is why they are often said to have nine lives. However, they are still susceptible to infection, damage, and disease, and even minor problems can become catastrophic once the nervous system becomes involved.

If you notice any changes in your cat’s behavior, personality, movements, or posture, do not hesitate to get in touch with your veterinarian.

Featured Image Credit: Official, Shutterstock

The post Neurological Disorders in Cats: Our Vet Explains Signs, Causes & Treatments by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

There are certain sounds that cats cannot resist – peeling back the lid of a can, the shake of the kibble box, or the opening of a refrigerator door – for Alex, it’s the rustle of paper being screwed up into a ball. I can be anywhere in the house, at any time of the day, and as soon as my hand starts to close around that piece of paper…Boom! The ginger ninja is there, long whiskers twitching, eyes wide, waiting to pounce.

You might recall that I recently talked about indoor cats and whether they should be allowed to hunt. When I watch the waves of anticipation ripple over Alex’s back as he readies himself to pounce on the unsuspecting ball of paper that has been so carelessly (strategically) tossed aside, I can see that he is able to flex his predatory instincts in a way that is safe for him, and seems to provide him with plenty of satisfaction.

Fresh is Best

Alex is quite particular about the quality of his crinkly quarry – evidently this type of game only stays fresh for a short time, and he’s soon back on the prowl. You might think that events like Christmas would be Alex’s idea of heaven, but not so. Apparently, the attraction of the paper prey is significantly reduced when available in large numbers – sort of like ‘shooting fish in a barrel’. It’s only fun if he needs to hone his instincts and strike with the precision of his wild ancestors, and evidently, being surrounded by a flurry of discarded wrapping paper and ribbon doesn’t have the same appeal!

Do the other cats get in on the action? Strangely, no; this is just Alex’s arena. Cyril occasionally looks on curiously, his fuzzy little brow furrowed in concentration, trying to work out the game, losing interest when he realizes there is no food reward.

When the hilarious duo, Ned & Fred, joined our household, there was suddenly competition. The tiny Chihuahuas are equally enamored of rustling wrappers, though they are usually motivated by the hope that there is something delicious contained within. Alex was initially put off by the Chihuahua’s energetic interference, but he now seems to enjoy the added difficulty level.

Zelda’s Stretch Appeal

Zelda is another of our hunters, but rather than engage in something as crass as chasing paper balls, her target requires something of a more stealthy approach. Hair ties and rubber bands are her quarry of choice, and she has a remarkable ability to sniff them out. Being that we would very much like to avoid these items lodging themselves in her intestines, this is something we try to prevent, but the fact that we actively deter and intercept her hunt seems to make it all the more satisfying for her.

On more than one occasion I have walked into the ensuite in the middle of the night to find Zelda precariously balanced on the shower door, trying to reach the hair tie I carelessly left hanging from the shower caddy. Just last night, she darted through the cat door that leads  to the catio outside, with a large rubber band clamped firmly between her tiny white teeth. Realizing she had been spotted, she moved like black lightning across the room, equal parts determined and gleeful, knowing I was close behind, wondering how on earth a large rubber band found its way into the catio in the first place. These springy objects are the only toys she has ever shown any interest in – unless you count the kitchen sponges she liked to shred into confetti as a kitten – and when I hear her jumping and galloping around upstairs, I know exactly what I will find.

Fortunately, Zelda has not suffered any gastrointestinal consequences from her choice of prey, and seems to lose interest as soon as she has succeeded in breaking through the band – evidently an elastic string lacks the appeal of the stretchy ring. But I am not willing to take my chances, and so we will continue our little ritual: Zelda, lurking in wait for the opportunity to sniff out an errant elastic band, me, ever alert to her strange little game.

My cats, just like yours, help us find joy in the simplest of things. Their affinity for discarded objects and trash often leaves me wondering how the cat toy industry stays afloat when most moggies are determined to make their own fun.

The post One Man’s Trash is Another Cat’s Treasure (with Video) by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.